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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger portion of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These baths were significantly deeper and so more encouraging compared to the tubs you’d find now. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it is nearly the sole way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these poor options, bathtubs in this age were still quite well made. While construction transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel seemed, and like the cast irons, these steel bathtubs were refined and even sometimes sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and baths made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel, any kind of bath may be refinished. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Skill Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Small mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Considerations
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bath, one that is “built in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may often start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel used before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a brand new look bathtub. It may be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain prior to applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is required at a minimum, when updating a tub’s drain assembly.
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Because, usually, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic stuff, ensure that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns continue around your capability to work safely or apply paint efficiently ventilation gear may also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous methods for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. No matter the strategy you choose, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any occupation prep strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Completely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that’ll make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. If this really is not possible, and the bathtub’s drain continues to be in great working order, remove. If you decide to remove a lever that is connected, be conscious not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply select not to remove. Poke holes used} in the homework stage, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Allow the product sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a relatively durable plastic, start in the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bathtub in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in places where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may seem. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other steps beneath, wrap tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense just to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to employ an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the bath entirely and let about 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out reasonably over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners might be hazardous to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or processors must also be addressed. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets which could show up in the restored area, if necessary.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more extensive cleaning, give the bathtub one final wipe with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. The products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on choices. Generally, you’ll find varying amounts of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate care.
Construct Your Very Own Clothing
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth work using long strokes along with a continuous movement, overlapping somewhat. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should afford a finish that can continue between 3 and 10 years in the event you’ven’t skimped on homework.
Applying Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely. It might not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently quite personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much discussion online about the favorite sprayer kind for this particular job.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Determined by the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The last coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads is used by some. Hand often does added buffing. Glazing can also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove from the job site. In case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a guru, while bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the most practically priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important guarantee.
The main factor in hiring a professional for this occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire a pro based on the standing of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the actual person you would need doing your job. These mechanics ought to be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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