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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but tubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were built around them. These tubs were considerably deeper and hence more encouraging compared to the baths you had find today. The dominant colour for baths is white and it’s also virtually the only way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these poor choices, bathtubs in this age were still quite well made. Tubs in steel seemed, while building shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel tubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel, any kind of tub could be refinished. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, by far the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Complex
• Putty knife •
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack fabric
• Small blending trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Off Site or In Place?
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bath, one that is “built-in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly begin with a process called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh look tub. It could be rewarding to plan for an update of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, that the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it makes sense in an area continuously subjected to water to eliminate the drain ahead of applying your new tub finish.
Note: When upgrading a tub’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is called for at a minimum.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and paints that are airborne, make certain that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns last around your capability to work or employ paint efficiently ventilation gear can also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous methods for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Whatever the strategy you select, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any job training strategy you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Completely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the bottom of the tub.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present tub hardware. The bathtub’s drain is still in good working order, and also if this really is not doable, remove the tub’s overflow plate. If you opt to remove a connected lever, be aware not to permit linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used in the prep phase, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bath surface. Allow the product sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away blots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
Mask both the interior of the bathtub as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where bath spouts or faucet handles may appear. Use masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps under, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it might make sense simply to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Minor Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the face of the tub entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This really is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they will level out pretty over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear after decades of improper cleaning on tub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners can be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Chips or dings must also be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.
If needed, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that could show up in the restored region.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, just use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There’s a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. These products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on choices. Generally, you’ll find varying levels of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that price may advise effectiveness with time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Build Your Very Own Apparel
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. As you move back and forth work using long strokes along with a constant motion, overlapping slightly. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This method should give a finish which will continue between 3 and 10 years, in the event that you haven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary widely.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much discussion online about the preferred sprayer sort for this particular job.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Determined by the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The last layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Hand often does additional buffing. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a professional, while bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is just one of the very practically priced jobs. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
The most important factor in hiring a professional for this job is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire a professional based on the standing of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the authentic individual you’d want doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the ability to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.
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