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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were constructed around them. These baths were considerably deeper and so more encouraging in relation to the tubs you’d find nowadays. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white and it’s essentially the sole solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor choices, bathtubs in this era were still really well made. Baths in steel seemed while construction transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel baths were refined and even occasionally sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any kind of bath may be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Ability Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Advanced
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Store towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Small mixing trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may generally start with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a new look bathtub. It may be worthwhile to plan for an update of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in an area always subjected to water to remove the drain ahead of applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is necessary at a minimum when upgrading a bath’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, in most cases, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic substances, make certain that you have sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores if added concerns last around your capability to work or employ paint efficiently.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous approaches available for effectively preparing a bath refinish. Irrespective of the approach you decide on, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any occupation prep strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that could make its way to the bottom of the bathtub.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present tub hardware. The tub’s drain is still in excellent working order, and if this really isn’t attainable, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow if you opt to remove a connected lever or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be used in the prep period, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Let the product sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a comparatively tough plastic, start at the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where bath spouts or faucet handles may seem. Use masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense just to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Modest Repairs
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the face of the bath completely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out reasonably over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleansers can be damaging to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or processors must additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets which could appear in the restored region if needed.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more comprehensive cleaning, give the bathtub one final wipe with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on options. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying amounts of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by price over time. Pick a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate care.
Assemble Your Own Apparel
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rental at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth, work using long strokes along with a continuous movement, overlapping slightly. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This method should yield a finish that’ll endure between 3 and 10 years, in the event that you haven’t skimped on prep.
Applying Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary. It may not be surprising that lots of pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently quite personalized.
(There’s much debate online about the favorite sprayer sort for this job.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is implemented. The concluding layer should dry for no less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Added buffing is often done by hand. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a master while tub refinishing can absolutely be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is just one of the most nearly priced occupations. Costs typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important guarantee.
In hiring a professional for this particular job the main variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a pro based on the standing of the company, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the authentic person you’d want doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the ability to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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