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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but tubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and so more encouraging than the baths you had see now. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white and it is almost the sole way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this age were still really well made. Bathtubs in steel appeared, while building transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel baths were refined and even sometimes sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and baths made of these metals finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a tub. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any kind of tub may be refinished. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Skill Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleaner Complex
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack fabric
• Little combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built-in,” it’s usually best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a new appearance tub. It might be worthwhile to plan for an update of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place always subjected to water to remove the drain ahead of applying your new bath finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is necessary at the absolute minimum when updating a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and airborne paints, make sure that you have sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns remain around your ability to work or apply paint efficiently, ventilation equipment can also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous approaches for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Irrespective of the strategy you select, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any job training strategy you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the tub surface. Start by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Completely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that will make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present tub hardware. The tub’s drain continues to be in good working order, as well as if this really is not attainable, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow should you determine to remove a lever that is connected or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply select not to remove. Poke holes used} in the homework period, or make an X.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
Mask both the inside of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where bath spouts or faucet handles may seem. Apply masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps below, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense just to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. While this method is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Mending Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners can be damaging to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Chips or dings should likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in little pockets that may show up in the repaired region if necessary.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more extensive cleaning, give the bathtub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either were not used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
That is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying degrees of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Own Kit
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes along with a continuous movement, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. In the event that you’ven’t skimped on prep, this approach should give a finish that can last between 3 and 10 years.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Approach
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the favourite sprayer sort for this occupation.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The last coat should dry for no less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads is used by some. Added buffing is frequently done by hand. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
In case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the just finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is frequently better left to a master while tub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is only one of the occupations that are most practically priced. Costs typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with an important guarantee.
In hiring a pro for this particular occupation the main variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire a master based on the name of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the real individual you’d want doing your job. These machinists should have the ability to create a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.
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