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You can probably say this about lots of things, but tubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were built around them. These baths were greatly fuller and so more inviting than the baths you had see nowadays. The dominant colour for baths is white and it’s virtually the only method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these bad choices, bathtubs in this age were still quite nicely made. Baths in steel seemed, while construction shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and elegant in design.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and baths made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a tub. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel, any type of tub can be refinished. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Store towels or • Paper • Tack fabric
• Little mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built in,” it’s usually best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a new look tub. It may be rewarding to plan for an update of the tub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the borders are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. In an area continuously subjected to water, before applying your new tub finish, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is needed at a minimum when upgrading a tub’s drain assembly.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic substances, ensure that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns continue around your skill to work safely or implement paint effectively ventilation gear can also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous methods available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Whatever the strategy you choose, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any job preparation approach you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the tub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Fully remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which could make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing tub hardware. If this really isn’t possible, and also the bath’s drain continues to be in great working order, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Baths fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with vintage baths), it might be better to just conceal overflow plates off. Be conscious not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow if you determine to remove a lever that is connected or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes used} in the prep stage, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bath surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a relatively durable plastic, start in the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may seem. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Minor Repairs
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to implement an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub entirely and let about 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This really is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they will level out moderately over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers might be harmful to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Chips or dings must also be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
If needed, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets which could appear in the fixed area.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying amounts of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by price over time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish continuing one to five years with proper attention.
Build Your Own Apparel
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and a continuous movement, overlapping somewhat as you move forth and back. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should yield a finish that’ll last between 3 and 10 years, in the event you haven’t skimped on prep.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary. It might not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually quite personalized.
(There’s much debate online about the preferred sprayer type for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The final layer should dry for no less than an hour.
Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads. Hand often does added buffing. Glazing can also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Package waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
It’s often better left to a pro while bathtub refinishing can certainly be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is just one of the most almost priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
The most significant factor in hiring a professional for this particular occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire a professional based on the standing of the firm, on their procedure, or on their system, but instead on the actual individual you would need doing your job. These machinists should be able to generate a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a choice, and review it.
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