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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were constructed around them. These tubs were considerably fuller and so more encouraging than the tubs you’d see nowadays. The dominant color for baths is white and it’s also essentially the only solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, tubs in this age were still really well made. Baths in steel seemed, while building shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel baths were refined and even occasionally sculptural like the casting irons.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact only small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and tubs made of these alloys finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of tub may be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Ability Level
• Acid-Based commercial cleaner Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife •
Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack fabric
• Little blending trough •
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Factors
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be employed onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new appearance bath. It may be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, that the edges are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In an area always subjected to water, prior to applying your new bath finish, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: When updating a bathtub’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is necessary at a minimum.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic substances, make certain that you’ve got sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear can also be rented at home improvement stores or rental centres if additional concerns persist around your capacity to work or employ paint effectively.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous strategies for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Irrespective of the approach you decide on, take great care in this period. The steps below are common to any occupation prep approach you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that could make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing bath hardware. The tub’s drain is still in good working order, as well as if this is not possible, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Tubs fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with classic baths), it may be better to just mask overflow plates off. If you determine to remove a linked lever, be aware not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be {used later.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole bathtub surface. Let the product sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
Mask both the inside of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in locations where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may seem. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it might make sense just to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to use an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the bath fully and let around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat aggressive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they are going to level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners can be detrimental to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or processors should also be addressed. Blend of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the sort used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets that could show up in the restored area, if needed.
Wipe Down
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more extensive cleaning, give the bathtub one final wipe with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. In general, you’ll locate varying degrees of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before buying and comprehend that cost may notify effectiveness with time. Select a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Very Own Clothing
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rental at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth work using long strokes along with a constant movement, overlapping slightly. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. In the event that you’ven’t skimped on homework, this approach should give a finish which will endure between 3 and 10 years.
Applying Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely.
Master Techniques
(There’s much debate online about the favourite sprayer kind for this job.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The concluding layer should dry for no less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Added buffing is often done by hand. Glazing can also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Package waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a guru while tub refinishing can certainly be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the jobs that are most almost priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
In hiring a pro for this particular job, the most important variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire a professional based on the reputation of the firm, on their procedure, or on their system, but rather on the genuine individual you’d want doing your job. These mechanics ought to be able to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.
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