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You can probably say this about lots of things, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were built around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and hence more inviting than the tubs you’d see now. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white and it’s nearly the sole solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this era were still really well made. While building shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel appeared, and in layout, these steel baths were even occasionally sculptural and refined like the casting irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these alloys ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bath. Any kind of bath could be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Advanced
Acid etching paste
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack fabric
• Little mixing trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built in,” it is generally best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel applied before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a brand new look bath. It may be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, that the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area continuously subjected to water, before applying your new tub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is demanded at the absolute minimum when updating a tub’s drain assembly.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic stuff, ensure that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns remain around your capacity to work safely or employ paint effectively ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous approaches available for essentially preparing a bath refinish. Irrespective of the strategy you choose, take great care during this phase. The measures below are common to any occupation training approach you might choose:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bathtub surface. Start by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Entirely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which could make its way to the underparts of the the tub up.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing bath hardware. The tub’s drain remains in good working order, and if this really isn’t possible, remove. Should you choose to remove a linked lever, be aware not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used much later in the prep phase, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole tub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
Mask both the interior of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where faucet or tub spouts handles may seem. Apply masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps beneath, wrap tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense only to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the face of the bath entirely and let about 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out moderately over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners can be hazardous to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Chips or dings should also be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that may appear in the fixed area if necessary.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Just use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying amounts of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Pick a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish continuing one to five years with proper care.
Build Your Own Clothing
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. Work using long strokes and a motion that is continuous, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This method should give a finish that’ll continue between 3 and 10 years if you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Using Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary widely.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much debate online about the favorite sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is implemented. The last coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads is used by some. Additional buffing is often done by hand. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is often better left to a master while tub refinishing can really be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the very nearly priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this occupation, the main factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire an expert based on the name of the company, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the real individual you would need doing your job. These mechanics ought to be able to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a choice.
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