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You can probably say this about a lot of things, but tubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were constructed around them. These tubs were significantly deeper and thus more inviting than the tubs you’d find now. The dominant color for baths is white and it’s almost the only way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, tubs in this era were still very nicely made. While construction transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel appeared, and like the cast irons, these steel tubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of bath may be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, undoubtedly the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Skill Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Advanced
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack fabric
• Little combining trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
As mentioned previously, cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that’s “built in,” it is typically best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh appearance tub. It could be rewarding to plan for an update of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, the edges are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area constantly subjected to water, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain before applying your new tub finish.
Note: When updating a tub’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is necessary at a minimum.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make sure that you have adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment can also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores if additional concerns persist around your capability to work safely or apply paint effectively.
Ready the Job
There are numerous strategies for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. Whatever the strategy you select, take great care during this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation prep strategy you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the tub surface. Begin by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the underparts of the the tub.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. If this isn’t attainable, and also the tub’s drain continues to be in good working order, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Should you decide to remove a linked lever, be aware not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used in the homework phase, or make an X.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bathtub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
Mask both the inside of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where bath spouts or faucet handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps beneath, wrap bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it may make sense simply to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to use an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover of the bath entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat aggressive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’ll level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Bath Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleansers can be hazardous to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or processors should also be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that could appear in the repaired region if necessary.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There is a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. The products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on choices. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying levels of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate care.
Assemble Your Own Clothing
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. As you move back and forth work using long strokes and also a constant movement, overlapping somewhat. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should afford a finish that’ll endure between 3 and 10 years if you haven’t skimped on prep.
Using Finishes: Pro Approach
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary widely. It might not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often quite personalized.
(There is much debate online about the favored sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is implemented. The last coat should dry for no less than an hour.
Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads. Additional buffing is often done by hand. Glazing may also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
While bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job, it is often better left to a master. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is only one of the jobs that are very practically priced. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important warranty.
In hiring a professional for this occupation, the main factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the name of the company, on their procedure, or on their system, but instead on the real individual you’d want doing your job. These machinists ought to have the ability to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making a choice.
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