Bathtub refinishing near me Spring Valley

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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were greatly fuller and so more inviting compared to the tubs you’d see today. The dominant color for tubs is white which is almost the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this age were still quite well made. Tubs in steel appeared, while construction transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel bathtubs were even occasionally sculptural and refined like the cast irons.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any kind of tub may be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, undoubtedly the most frequently installed bathtub.

Tools Materials Skill Level

• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced 4 to 8 Hours

Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape

• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack fabric
• Little combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that’s “built-in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel applied before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be implemented onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of prep.

Will You Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a brand new appearance bathtub. It could be worth it to plan for an update of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, that the edges are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place constantly subjected to water to eliminate the drain prior to applying your new bath finish.

Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is required at the absolute minimum when upgrading a tub’s drain assembly.

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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic substances, ensure that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if added concerns remain around your capacity to work or use paint efficiently.
Prepare the Occupation

There are numerous approaches available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. Regardless of the approach you choose, take great care in this period. The measures below are common to any occupation preparation strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that’ll make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present bath hardware. If this really isn’t feasible, and the bathtub’s drain continues to be in excellent working order, remove. Be conscious not to let linkages to fall back in the overflow should you choose to remove a linked lever or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be used later in the homework phase, to allow for drainage of water.

4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the complete bath surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.

5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a relatively durable plastic, begin at the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in locations where faucet or tub spouts handles may seem. Apply masking tape before spraying.

6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense merely to remove them.

Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs

Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub completely and allow about 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this method is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they are going to level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections

Spots and grittiness can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers could be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish dings or processors should likewise be addressed. Mix of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry according to the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in little pockets which could appear in the fixed area.

Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Only use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying degrees of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Pick a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Own Apparel

Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes along with a constant motion, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This process should yield a finish that can endure between 3 and 10 years in case you haven’t skimped on homework.
Implementing Finishes: Pro Strategy

Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary widely.
Ace Techniques

(There is much debate online about the favored sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The concluding coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads. Hand usually does added buffing. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
In case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
While bathtub refinishing can surely be a DIY job, it’s often better left to a pro. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is simply one of the jobs that are very almost priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a significant guarantee.
The most significant variable in hiring a pro for this particular job is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a pro based on the reputation of the company, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the authentic person you would need doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the capacity to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.

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