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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were built around them. These baths were greatly fuller and therefore more encouraging than the tubs you had find nowadays. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white and it’s basically the sole solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these bad options, tubs in this age were still quite well made. While building transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel appeared, and in layout, these steel bathtubs were elegant and even occasionally sculptural like the casting irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bath. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel, any type of tub may be refinished. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Skill Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Store towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Little combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh appearance tub. It could be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place continuously subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain ahead of applying your new bath finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is required at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a tub’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic substances, make certain that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns continue around your capability to work or use paint efficiently ventilation gear can also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous methods for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. Regardless of the approach you decide on, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any job preparation strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the tub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Fully remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which will make its way to the bottom of the tub up.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present bath hardware. The tub’s drain remains in excellent working order, and if this really isn’t feasible, remove. Baths fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with classic baths), it may be better to just mask overflow plates off. Be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow if you choose to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be used in the homework phase to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire tub surface. Let the product sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
Mask both the inside of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in locations where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may seem. Before spraying, use masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps below, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense only to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the face of the tub entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. While this method is somewhat aggressive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out reasonably over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleansers could be damaging to bath surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips should additionally be addressed. Mix of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry based on the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets which could show up in the fixed area if necessary.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either weren’t used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. The products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on options. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying amounts of quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Choose a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Very Own Apparel
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rental at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth, work using long strokes and a constant motion, overlapping slightly. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should give a finish that will endure between 3 and 10 years in case you haven’t skimped on homework.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary widely.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much discussion online about the favored sprayer type for this occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The final layer should dry for no less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads. Added buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Package waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
It’s frequently better left to a professional, while tub refinishing can absolutely be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the jobs that are very practically priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant guarantee.
In hiring a professional for this job the most significant variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire a master based on the reputation of the business, on their system, or on their process, but rather on the real person you would desire doing your job. These machinists should have the ability to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making a choice.
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