Bathtub refinishing near me Lakeside

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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were considerably deeper and so more inviting compared to the baths you’d find today. The dominant color for tubs is white and it’s nearly the only way to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these bad options, bathtubs in this era were still quite well made. Tubs in steel seemed, while building shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel baths were even sometimes sculptural and refined in design.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and baths made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a tub. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any type of bath can be refinished. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most often installed bathtub.

Tools Substances Skill Level

• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Complex

• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack material
• Small mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may often start with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel used before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be applied onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.

Will You Replace Hardware?

Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a fresh appearance tub. It may be worth it to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, that the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place continuously subjected to water, prior to applying your new tub finish, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain.

Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is called for at the absolute minimum, when updating a tub’s drain assembly.

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Because, usually, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic substances, ensure that you’ve got sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear can also be leased at home improvement stores or rental centres if additional concerns continue around your skill to work safely or apply paint efficiently.
Prepare the Occupation

There are numerous methods for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Regardless of the approach you choose, take great care in this period. The measures below are common to any occupation prep strategy you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and end with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the bottom of the tub.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. The bathtub’s drain remains in excellent working order, and also if this isn’t doable, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Be aware not to let linkages to fall back into the overflow if you opt to remove a lever that is linked or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be {used later.

4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire tub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the bath dry.

5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a comparatively sturdy plastic, start in the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may seem. Use masking tape prior to spraying.

6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps below, wrap tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense merely to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs

Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover of the bath completely and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they are going to level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections

Spots and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on tub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleansers could be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Chips or dings must likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader.

Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets that may appear in the restored region if needed.

Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with fast-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids either weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Approach

Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. In general, you’ll find varying levels of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that cost may tell effectiveness with time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate care.
Assemble Your Very Own Kit

Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. As you move back and forth work using long strokes and also a constant movement, overlapping somewhat. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This process should yield a finish which will last between 3 and 10 years, in the event that you haven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Professional Strategy

Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely.
Professional Techniques

(There’s much debate online about the preferred sprayer sort for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The final layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads is used by some. Additional buffing is often done by hand. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.

In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
While bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job, it’s frequently better left to a guru. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the occupations that are very nearly priced. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this occupation the main variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the name of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the actual person you’d need doing your job. These mechanics should have the ability to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a choice, and review it.

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