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You could probably say this about a lot of matters, but tubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger portion of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These baths were considerably deeper and consequently more encouraging compared to the tubs you’d see now. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it is almost the sole way to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these bad alternatives, tubs in this era were still quite well made. Baths in steel appeared while building transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel tubs were refined and even sometimes sculptural like the casting irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these metals finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a tub. Any kind of bath can be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Established commercial cleaner Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Little mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that is “built in,” it is typically best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may often begin with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a new appearance bathtub. It could be worth it to plan for an upgrade of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, that the edges are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place continuously subjected to water to remove the drain ahead of applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the tub drain is necessary at the absolute minimum, when updating a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Because, generally, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic substances, make certain that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if additional concerns remain around your capability to work or use paint efficiently.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous approaches for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Irrespective of the approach you decide on, take great care in this period. The steps below are common to any occupation preparation approach you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Entirely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which could make its way to the bottom of the tub.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present tub hardware. If this really is not feasible, and also the bath’s drain is still in good working order, remove. Tubs fitted with interconnected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with vintage tubs), it may be best to just conceal overflow plates away. If you decide to remove a linked lever, be conscious not to let linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be used much later in the prep phase.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bath surface. Allow the product sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away stains. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Space: Using a relatively strong plastic, begin at the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may seem. Apply masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps beneath, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to implement an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover of the bath completely and let around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this method is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers might be hazardous to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green stains or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or processors should additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets that may show up in the fixed region.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with fast-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either weren’t used, just use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
That is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. These items vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on choices. Generally, you’ll locate varying amounts of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before purchasing and understand that effectiveness may be informed by price over time. Pick a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate care.
Assemble Your Very Own Clothing
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface when spraying. Work using long strokes and a constant movement, overlapping somewhat as you move forth and back. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This approach should yield a finish that’ll endure between 3 and 10 years if you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Employing Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary widely. It may not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often quite personalized.
(There’s much debate online about the favorite sprayer type for this occupation.n general, select airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The concluding coat should dry for no less than an hour.
Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Additional buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
In case some of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s frequently better left to a pro, while bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is only one of the occupations that are very nearly priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant guarantee.
In hiring a pro for this occupation the most important variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the name of the business, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the real individual you’d desire doing your job. These machinists ought to have the capacity to generate a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making the decision, and review it.
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