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You could probably say this about lots of things, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were built around them. These baths were considerably deeper and so more inviting compared to the baths you’d find nowadays. The dominant color for bathtubs is white and it’s basically the only way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor choices, tubs in this age were still quite well made. While building transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel appeared, and like the cast irons, these steel tubs were elegant and even occasionally sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these alloys finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bath. Any type of tub could be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife •
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Little mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bath, one that’s “built in,” it is generally best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel employed before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new look tub. It might be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, that the edges are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area always subjected to water, before applying your new bathtub finish, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: When upgrading a bath’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is called for at a minimum.
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Because, generally, you’ll be working with caustic substances and airborne paints, ensure that you’ve got adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be leased at home improvement stores or rental centres if additional concerns last around your capability to work safely or apply paint effectively.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous approaches for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. No matter the strategy you select, take great care in this period. The measures below are common to any occupation training strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bath surface. Start by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that’ll make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. If this really is not achievable, and the bath’s drain remains in great working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Tubs fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (notably with classic bathtubs), it might be best to just hide overflow plates off. Should you opt to remove a linked lever, be aware not to let linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used in the prep period, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole tub surface. Allow the product sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
Mask both the interior of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures below, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it may make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to implement an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the tub fully and allow about 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This really is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they are going to level out reasonably over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners could be harmful to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips should additionally be addressed. Blend a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that may appear in the repaired area if needed.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more extensive cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on options. In general, you’ll locate varying levels of quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before purchasing and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with proper attention.
Build Your Own Kit
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes along with a movement that is continuous, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This method should afford a finish that will continue between 3 and 10 years in the event you haven’t skimped on prep.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the favored sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, select airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is implemented. The last coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
Some use an auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads. Hand usually does additional buffing. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
In case any of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the just finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
While bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY job, it is frequently better left to a professional. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is just one of the most nearly priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a pro for this occupation, the most significant variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire an expert based on the reputation of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the genuine individual you would desire doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the capacity to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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