Kitchen Refinishing near me Chula Vista

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You could probably say this about a lot of matters, but tubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were considerably fuller and therefore more encouraging in relation to the tubs you’d see today. The dominant color for baths is white and it’s also basically the only method to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor choices, bathtubs in this age were still really well made. Baths in steel seemed, while building transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, and in layout, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and elegant like the casting irons.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and baths made of these alloys finally last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel, any kind of bath may be refinished. This article focus on the redo of an alcove bath, undoubtedly the most often installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Skill Level Estimated Time

• Acid-Based commercial cleanser Innovative
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth

• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack fabric
• Little combining trough •
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are extremely heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that’s “built-in,” it is typically best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may often start with a process called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of homework.

Will You Replace Hardware?

Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh appearance bath. It could be worth it to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, that the edges are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain prior to applying your new bath finish.

Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is required at a minimum when upgrading a tub’s drain assembly.

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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic stuff, ensure that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores if additional concerns last around your ability to work safely or implement paint effectively.
Prepare the Occupation

There are numerous strategies for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. Regardless of the approach you select, take great care in this phase. The measures below are common to any job prep strategy you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Completely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that’ll make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub up.

2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. If this is not doable, and also the bath’s drain continues to be in good working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. If you decide to remove a lever that is connected, be aware not to enable linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be {used much later.

4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Allow the product sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.

5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a comparatively tough plastic, begin at the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bathtub as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or tub spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps beneath, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense only to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Make Minor Repairs

Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to use an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover the face of the bath entirely and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out moderately over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and stains can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be damaging to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or chips should likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that may appear in the restored area if necessary.

Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Only use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. The products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on choices. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying levels of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that cost may tell effectiveness with time. Pick a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with proper attention.
Assemble Your Own Kit

Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes along with a movement that is constant, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This approach should afford a finish that will continue between 3 and 10 years, in the event you haven’t skimped on prep.
Employing Finishes: Pro Strategy

Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary.
Professional Techniques

Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the favored sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The final coat should dry for no less than an hour.
An auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Hand usually does additional buffing. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.

It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the just finished surface. Package waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you

While bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY project, it is frequently better left to a pro. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is just one of the jobs that are most almost priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with an important guarantee.
In hiring a professional for this job the most significant variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the name of the business, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the genuine individual you would need doing your job. These machinists ought to have the capacity to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making the decision, and review it.

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