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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but tubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These baths were significantly deeper and therefore more inviting than the tubs you’d find nowadays. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white which is virtually the sole solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these bad options, tubs in this era were still very well made. While building shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel seemed, and like the casting irons, these steel baths were even occasionally sculptural and elegant in design.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. While those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any kind of tub can be refinished. This article focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Skill Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced 4 to 8 Hours
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Auto polisher/buffer •
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack fabric
• Little combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel baths are extremely heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bath, one that is “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be applied onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a fresh look tub. It could be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it makes sense in an area continuously subjected to water to eliminate the drain prior to applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is necessary at the absolute minimum when upgrading a bath’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic stuff, make sure that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns remain around your capacity to work safely or apply paint efficiently, ventilation gear can also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous strategies for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. Whatever the strategy you choose, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation training approach you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the tub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Completely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that may make its way to the bottom of the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. The bath’s drain continues to be in great working order, and if this isn’t possible, remove. Should you decide to remove a lever that is linked, be aware not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used in the homework period.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bath surface. Allow the product sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
Mask both the inside of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps under, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub fully and let around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleansers could be damaging to bath surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Chips or dings must additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the sort used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets that may show up in the restored region if needed.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Simply use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying degrees of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and understand that cost may inform effectiveness over time. Pick a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Own Kit
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes along with a continuous motion, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This method should give a finish that will last between 3 and 10 years if you’ven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary widely. It may not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often quite personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much debate online about the favorite sprayer sort for this particular occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The final layer should dry for no less than an hour.
An auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Hand often does additional buffing. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case any of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Package waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s frequently better left to a master while tub refinishing can certainly be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the jobs that are very practically priced. Costs typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
The most significant factor in hiring a pro for this particular job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the standing of the business, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the real individual you’d need doing your job. These mechanics should have the capacity to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making a decision.
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