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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but tubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were built around them. These tubs were greatly fuller and consequently more encouraging compared to the tubs you’d see today. The dominant color for baths is white and it’s almost the only solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these bad options, bathtubs in this age were still very nicely made. Bathtubs in steel seemed while construction shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel tubs were even sometimes sculptural and refined in layout.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these metals finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. While those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel, any kind of tub can be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Ability Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Store towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Little blending trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Concerns
As mentioned previously, cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bath, one that’s “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may often start with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel applied before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a brand new look bath. It could be worth it to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, ahead of applying your new bathtub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is required at the absolute minimum, when updating a tub’s drain assembly.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic stuff, make certain that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns last around your ability to work or employ paint effectively, ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous strategies for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Irrespective of the strategy you decide on, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any occupation preparation approach you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that could make its way to the bottom of the bath.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing bath hardware. If this really isn’t doable, as well as the bath’s drain remains in good working order, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Be aware not to enable linkages to fall back in the overflow if you opt to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes used} in the prep stage, or make an X.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire tub surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a relatively durable plastic, begin at the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bathtub as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may seem. Before spraying, use masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures below, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense simply to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to implement an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the bath completely and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This really is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they are going to level out pretty over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners can be detrimental to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or chips must likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry according to the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets which could show up in the fixed region if necessary.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more comprehensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Just use if acids were not used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. The products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on options. Generally, you’ll find varying levels of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and comprehend that price may advise effectiveness over time. Choose a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate care.
Build Your Very Own Apparel
The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. Work using a constant movement and long strokes, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In the event you’ven’t skimped on homework, this method should give a finish that can last between 3 and 10 years.
Applying Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary widely.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much discussion online about the preferred sprayer sort for this particular job.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Determined by the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The final coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. A car compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Hand frequently does additional buffing. Glazing may also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a master, while tub refinishing can absolutely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is only one of the occupations that are most practically priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important warranty.
In hiring a professional for this occupation the most important variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the reputation of the firm, on their system, or on their process, but rather on the actual individual you would want doing your job. These machinists ought to have the capacity to create a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making the decision.
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