Kitchen Refinishing near me Coronado

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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger portion of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were constructed around them. These baths were greatly fuller and so more encouraging compared to the baths you’d see today. The dominant color for baths is white and it’s also virtually the only way to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad choices, bathtubs in this age were still quite nicely made. While construction shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, baths in steel appeared, and like the cast irons, these steel baths were refined and even sometimes sculptural in layout.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of tub could be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.

Tools Substances Ability Level Estimated Time

• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife •
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack fabric
• Small mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel applied before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be employed onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a new look bathtub. It might be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the edges are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it makes sense in an area constantly subjected to water to remove the drain before applying your new tub finish.

Note: When updating a bath’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity supporting the tub drain is demanded at a minimum.

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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, in most cases, you’ll be working with caustic materials and airborne paints, make sure that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns last around your capability to work or use paint effectively ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation

There are numerous strategies available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Irrespective of the approach you choose, take great care during this phase. The steps below are common to any job prep strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the tub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the bath.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present bath hardware. If this really is not attainable, and also the tub’s drain remains in excellent working order, remove. Tubs fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with vintage baths), it might be best to just hide overflow plates away. Be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow should you choose to remove a lever that is connected or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply select not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be {used much later.

4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire tub surface. Let the product sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.

Mask both the inside of the bathtub as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where tub spouts or faucet handles may seem. Use masking tape prior to spraying.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense only to remove them.

Prepare the Surface and Make Modest Repairs

Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to implement an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub completely and allow around 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they’re going to level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and spots can appear after decades of improper cleaning on tub surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers can be hazardous to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or processors must likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that may appear in the restored area if needed.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids either weren’t used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. The products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on alternatives. In general, you’ll find varying levels of quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before purchasing and comprehend that cost may tell effectiveness over time. Pick a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Assemble Your Very Own Apparel

Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes along with a motion that is continuous, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This method should give a finish that can last between 3 and 10 years in the event you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Applying Finishes: Professional Strategy

Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary. It might not be surprising that lots of pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently personalized.
Master Techniques

(There’s much debate online about the favored sprayer kind for this job.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The final coat should dry for no less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Added buffing is frequently done by hand. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
In case any one of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you

It’s often better left to a master while tub refinishing can certainly be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is only one of the most nearly priced occupations. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
The main factor in hiring a professional for this job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a master based on the reputation of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the genuine person you would desire doing your job. These mechanics should be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.

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