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You could probably say this about lots of things, but tubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger portion of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were built around them. These baths were greatly deeper and thus more inviting than the baths you’d find nowadays. The dominant color for baths is white and it’s also nearly the only method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this age were still quite well made. Bathtubs in steel seemed while construction transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel tubs were even occasionally sculptural and refined like the cast irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact only minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these metals finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. Any type of bath may be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, by far the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Advanced 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Little mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bath, one that is “built in,” it’s usually best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be implemented onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a new appearance bath. It might be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place continuously subjected to water, prior to applying your new tub finish, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain.
Note: When upgrading a bath’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is necessary at a minimum.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make sure that you have sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns continue around your ability to work or use paint efficiently ventilation gear may also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous approaches for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. Irrespective of the approach you choose, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation training approach you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the tub surface. Begin by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the bath.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. The tub’s drain is still in excellent working order, as well as if this really isn’t doable, remove. Tubs fitted with interconnected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with classic tubs), it might be best to just conceal overflow plates away. If you choose to remove a linked lever, be conscious not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes used} in the homework stage, or make an X.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole bathtub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a comparatively strong plastic, begin in the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Apply masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps below, wrap bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense simply to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Minor Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the face of the bath fully and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’re going to level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers can be harmful to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or chips should also be addressed. Mix of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
If needed, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets that could appear in the repaired region.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids were not used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on choices. In general, you’ll locate varying amounts of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and understand that cost may tell effectiveness with time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Assemble Your Very Own Kit
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rental at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and a continuous motion, overlapping slightly as you move forth and back. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should yield a finish that will endure between 3 and 10 years in the event that you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Applying Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary. It might not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually quite personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the favorite sprayer kind for this job.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The last layer should dry for no less than an hour.
An auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads is used by some. Hand usually does additional buffing. Glazing may also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It’s frequently better left to a professional while bathtub refinishing can certainly be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the occupations that are very nearly priced. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this particular job, the main variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire a pro based on the reputation of the business, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the real person you would desire doing your job. These mechanics should have the ability to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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