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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were built around them. These baths were greatly fuller and hence more encouraging in relation to the tubs you’d find today. The dominant colour for baths is white and it’s also basically the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor alternatives, tubs in this age were still really well made. While construction transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel appeared, and like the cast irons, these steel bathtubs were elegant and even sometimes sculptural in design.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these alloys ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bath. Any kind of tub could be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, undoubtedly the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Skill Level
• Acid-Established commercial cleanser Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack fabric
• Small mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may commonly begin with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel employed before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be employed onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a brand new look bath. It might be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the edges are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain prior to applying your new bath finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is necessary at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, in most cases, you’ll be working with caustic materials and paints that are airborne, make certain that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns continue around your skill to work or implement paint efficiently, ventilation equipment may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous methods available for effectively preparing a bath refinish. Whatever the approach you choose, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any job prep approach you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bath surface. Start by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that could make its way to the underparts of the the bath.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. The bath’s drain is still in excellent working order, and if this isn’t achievable, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Be conscious not to let linkages to fall back in the overflow if you choose to remove a linked lever or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used in the prep stage to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a relatively tough plastic, begin at the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in locations where bath spouts or faucet handles may seem. Use masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures under, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the face of the bath completely and let about 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers might be detrimental to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish dings or processors must likewise be addressed. Blend a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets that may appear in the fixed region if needed.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Only use if acids were not used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on choices. In general, you’ll find varying amounts of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and understand that price may tell effectiveness with time. Select a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with proper attention.
Assemble Your Own Clothing
The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth work using long strokes and also a constant movement, overlapping somewhat. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In the event you’ven’t skimped on homework, this process should yield a finish which will last between 3 and 10 years.
Employing Finishes: Pro Approach
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary widely. It might not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently quite personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the favored sprayer type for this job.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The final coat should dry for no less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. A car compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Additional buffing is frequently done by hand. Glazing may also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
In case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the just finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It’s frequently better left to a guru, while tub refinishing can certainly be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is only one of the most nearly priced occupations. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with an important guarantee.
The most crucial variable in hiring a professional for this particular job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a master based on the name of the company, on their procedure, or on their system, but instead on the real person you’d need doing your job. These mechanics should have the capacity to generate a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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