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You could probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were assembled around them. These tubs were considerably deeper and so more encouraging in relation to the tubs you had see nowadays. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white and it is essentially the only way to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these bad alternatives, tubs in this age were still very well made. While building shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, baths in steel appeared, and like the casting irons, these steel tubs were even sometimes sculptural and refined in design.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact just minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys finally last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. Any type of tub could be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most often installed bathtub.

Tools Materials Skill Level

• Acid-Established commercial cleanser Innovative
• Putty knife •
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Store towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Little mixing trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built in,” it is usually best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a new look bathtub. It might be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place continuously subjected to water to remove the drain prior to applying your new bath finish.

Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the tub drain is called for at a minimum when upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly.

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Because, generally, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic materials, ensure that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns remain around your ability to work or implement paint efficiently, ventilation gear may also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation

There are numerous approaches for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Irrespective of the strategy you choose, take great care in this period. The measures below are common to any job training approach you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that’ll make its way to the bottom of the bath up.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing bath hardware. If this really isn’t feasible, and the bathtub’s drain remains in good working order, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Be aware not to enable linkages to fall back in the overflow if you decide to remove a connected lever or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes used} in the prep stage, or make an X.

4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.

Mask both the inside of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may appear. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps beneath, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it may make sense simply to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Make Small Repairs

Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to implement an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the bath entirely and allow about 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This really is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they will level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and spots can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners can be hazardous to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips should also be addressed. Blend a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

If needed, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in little pockets which could show up in the fixed area.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with fast-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Just use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Approach

Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on choices. In general, you’ll find varying amounts of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and understand that price may tell effectiveness with time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with proper attention.
Assemble Your Very Own Kit

Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using a constant movement and also long strokes, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. In case you haven’t skimped on prep, this approach should yield a finish that can endure between 3 and 10 years.
Implementing Finishes: Pro Approach

Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary. It may not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually personalized.
Professional Techniques

Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the preferred sprayer kind for this job.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The last coat should dry for no less than an hour.
An auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Added buffing is often done by hand. Glazing can also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
In case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It’s often better left to a professional, while tub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the occupations that are very nearly priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this job, the most important factor is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the reputation of the business, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the real person you’d need doing your job. These machinists should be able to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making the decision.



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