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You could probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were built around them. These tubs were greatly fuller and consequently more inviting compared to the baths you’d see today. The dominant colour for tubs is white which is virtually the sole solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these poor choices, tubs in this age were still quite well made. While building shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel appeared, and in design, these steel baths were even occasionally sculptural and elegant like the casting irons.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a tub. Any kind of bath can be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most often installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Skill Level

• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleaner Advanced 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Masking tape

• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Little mixing trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
As mentioned previously, cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bath, one that’s “built-in,” it is typically best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a process called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be employed onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new look tub. It might be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place constantly subjected to water, ahead of applying your new tub finish, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain.

Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the tub drain is demanded at a minimum when upgrading a tub’s drain assembly.

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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with caustic materials and airborne paints, make sure that you’ve got sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns remain around your capability to work or use paint efficiently ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation

There are numerous strategies available for effectively preparing a bath refinish. Whatever the approach you select, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any job training strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Completely remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which will make its way to the bottom of the bath up.

2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. The tub’s drain continues to be in great working order, and also if this really isn’t possible, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Tubs fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with vintage bathtubs), it might be best to simply mask overflow plates away. Should you decide to remove a lever that is connected, be conscious not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be {used much later.

4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.

5) Mask Off the Bath Space: Using a comparatively sturdy plastic, begin in the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where bath spouts or faucet handles may seem. Apply masking tape prior to spraying.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense just to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Make Modest Repairs

Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the surface of the bath entirely and let around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. While this process is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the amount that they will level out pretty over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and spots can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers could be harmful to tub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or processors must additionally be addressed. Mix of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that could show up in the restored region, if needed.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids weren’t used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. Generally, you’ll locate varying degrees of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by price over time. Pick a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Own Kit

The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. As you move back and forth, work using long strokes along with a continuous movement, overlapping slightly. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In case you haven’t skimped on prep, this process should yield a finish which will continue between 3 and 10 years.
Employing Finishes: Pro Approach

Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely.
Pro Techniques

(There’s much debate online about the favourite sprayer kind for this particular job.n general, select airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is implemented. The concluding coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Added buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.

In case some of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Package waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you

It is frequently better left to a guru while bathtub refinishing can surely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is just one of the occupations that are most practically priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant warranty.
The most crucial factor in hiring a professional for this occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a professional based on the reputation of the business, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the actual individual you would need doing your job. These mechanics ought to be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a choice.



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