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You can probably say this about lots of things, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were built around them. These baths were considerably deeper and thus more encouraging compared to the tubs you had find today. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white and it’s also almost the only way to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor choices, tubs in this era were still quite nicely made. While construction transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel seemed, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural in design.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and bathtubs made of these alloys finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. Any kind of bath may be refinished while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Complex
• Putty knife •
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
Masking tape
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack cloth
• Small blending trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bath, one that’s “built in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be employed onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a brand new look bath. It might be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In an area always subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain prior to applying your new tub finish.
Note: When upgrading a tub’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is called for at the absolute minimum.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make certain that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns last around your capability to work or use paint efficiently, ventilation equipment may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous strategies for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Irrespective of the approach you choose, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any job training approach you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the tub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that could make its way to the underparts of the the tub.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present bath hardware. If this really is not feasible, along with the tub’s drain continues to be in great working order, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Baths fitted with interconnected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with classic baths), it may be better to just mask overflow plates away. Be aware not to permit linkages to fall back in the overflow should you determine to remove a connected lever or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used in the prep phase, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bathtub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a relatively tough plastic, start at the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may seem. Apply masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures under, wrap bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense only to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to apply an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the surface of the bath entirely and let around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out pretty over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners might be damaging to tub surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Processors or dings must additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that could appear in the repaired area, if needed.
Wipe Down
Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more thorough cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either were not used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on options. In general, you’ll locate varying amounts of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Choose a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate care.
Build Your Own Kit
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using a constant motion and also long strokes, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This method should afford a finish that can endure between 3 and 10 years, in the event you haven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary. It may not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually personalized.
Ace Techniques
(There’s much debate online about the preferred sprayer type for this particular job.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The concluding layer should dry for no less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Additional buffing is often done by hand. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Package waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a pro while tub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is only one of the most almost priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this particular job, the most important factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a professional based on the reputation of the company, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the authentic person you would desire doing your job. These machinists should have the capacity to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.
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